Most “security problems” aren’t dramatic. They’re small: a door that doesn’t latch smoothly, a loose strike plate, a deadbolt that only works if you yank the handle just right.

The good news: you can catch most of those issues in 10 minutes with a quick check. This guide shows you what to look for, what you can safely fix yourself, and when it’s time to call a professional.

Safety note: If you rent, check your lease before modifying hardware. For businesses, follow your building’s code/compliance requirements for exits.

What You Need (2 minutes)

• A Phillips screwdriver

• A flashlight (phone light is fine)

• A sticky note or note app

• (Optional) a 3" wood screw for reinforcement

Step 1: The “Does It Latch?” Test (1 minute)

Close the door normally—don’t push, lift, or slam.

✅ Pass: Door closes and latches with a normal pull.

⚠️ Fail signs:

• You have to pull the door tight to lock it

• It bounces off the frame

• The latch hits the strike plate and “clicks” but doesn’t fully catch

• The deadbolt won’t extend unless you wiggle the door

Why it matters: A door that doesn’t latch reliably is easier to force—and people are more likely to leave it unlocked out of frustration.

Step 2: Check the Strike Plate and Screws (2 minutes)

Open the door and look at the metal plate on the frame (where the latch/bolt goes).

✅ Pass: Plate is snug, screws are tight, no visible gaps or movement.

⚠️ Fail signs:

• Strike plate wiggles when you touch it

• Screws spin but won’t tighten

• Wood around the plate looks cracked or chewed up

• The latch/bolt rubs the plate (shiny scrape marks)

Quick DIY fix: Tighten screws.

Better fix (if safe to do): Replace the short screws with longer screws that bite into the framing (often 3"). This is one of the highest “value per minute” upgrades you can do.

If the wood is stripped, you may need a repair (toothpicks/wood glue method or a proper wood plug) before new screws will hold.

Step 3: Deadbolt Throw Check (1 minute)

Lock the deadbolt with the door closed.

✅ Pass: The bolt extends smoothly all the way without resistance.

⚠️ Fail signs:

• You have to lift/push the door for it to lock

• It feels gritty or tight

• It only goes halfway

• You can see the bolt rubbing metal

What it usually means: Alignment issue. The door may be sagging slightly, the strike hole may be off by a few millimeters, or the weatherstrip may be compressing wrong.

Step 4: Hinge Check (2 minutes)

Open the door halfway and gently lift up on the handle.

✅ Pass: No noticeable movement.

⚠️ Fail signs:

• The door moves up/down

• Hinge screws are loose

• There’s a visible gap at the top or the door rubs the frame

Quick DIY fix: Tighten hinge screws.

If screws are stripped: longer screws or wood repair may be needed.

Why it matters: A sagging door causes misalignment that leads to poor latching, deadbolt binding, and faster wear.

Step 5: Door Sweep / Weatherstrip & “Forced Entry” Gaps (1–2 minutes)

Look for daylight around the door edges when closed.

✅ Pass: Minimal gaps and consistent seal.

⚠️ Fail signs:

• Big gap at the latch side

• Door rattles when you wiggle it

• Weatherstrip is torn or missing

• You can see light near the lock area

Why it matters: Large gaps make prying easier and reduce the door’s resistance.

Step 6: Lock Function Check (1 minute)

Test:

• Lock/unlock from inside

• Lock/unlock from outside

• Key turns smoothly

• Knob/lever returns properly

• Latch springs back every time

⚠️ Warning signs:

• Sticky key turns

• Key only works if inserted “just so”

• Handle feels loose or droops

• Latch is slow to return

Tip: If it’s sticky, don’t force it. Forcing is how keys snap.

Quick Fixes Most People Can Do

✅ Tighten loose screws (hinges, strike plate, handle)

✅ Replace short strike screws with longer screws (when appropriate)

✅ Replace worn weatherstrip/door sweep

✅ Lubricate correctly (dry graphite for keyways; avoid oily sprays inside cylinders)

“Call a Pro” Situations (Save Yourself Time)

📌 You need to push/pull hard to lock

📌 Deadbolt binds or only extends partially

📌 Screws won’t tighten (stripped holes)

📌 Door is out of alignment or rubbing the frame

📌 Business doors with closers/panic hardware aren’t closing reliably

📌 You want reinforcement without guesswork

A quick adjustment and reinforcement can make the difference between “kind of works” and “secure and smooth.”

The Screenshot Checklist (Do This Once a Quarter)

☐ Door latches normally

☐ Strike plate tight

☐ Deadbolt throws smoothly

☐ Hinges tight (no sag)

☐ No major gaps/daylight

☐ Key turns smoothly

☐ Handle returns properly

Bottom Line

A secure door is a door that closes, latches, and locks smoothly—every time. This 10-minute check catches most issues before they turn into lockouts, broken keys, or security risks.